Timekeeping is a science, and that’s exactly what drew Dr. Brendan Frett to it — that and inheriting his great-great-grandfather’s pocket watch. On the clock, he’s an assistant professor of pharmaceutical sciences at UAMS. On his own time, a fascination with American timepieces turned into restoring and modifying vintage watches to sell online. And when COVID lockdowns brought unexpected spare time, Brendan and his wife Kylie, a senior marketing coordinator for Arkansas Blue Cross and Blue Shield, made it official by launching Frett & Co. Clockworks.
The business marked its fifth anniversary this spring with more than 34,000 followers in tow on Instagram alone. Not only has Frett & Co. been fully embraced by the clockwork community, it’s become one of the arena’s leading voices in the country.
Soirée sat down with Kylie and Brendan to talk craft philosophy, “heirloom empathy” and what makes a watchmaker tick.
Brendan, although you’re mostly self-taught, what have you learned about the craft from your community of watchmakers?
BF: Watchmaking is like science in that the saying “spend an hour in the library or a month in the lab” applies equally to both disciplines. Many of these vintage movements do not have easily accessible service manuals, so questions are often answered by word of mouth or through online communities. You can learn through “guess, test and revise,” or you can learn by asking questions on traditional techniques or processes that you understand theoretically, but not necessarily in execution. The vintage American watchmaking community has been instrumental in honing my craft.
What’s your favorite part of the process, the most satisfying?
BF: The watch restoration process is long, and it can be challenging to wait for the finished product. The time from when the watch first comes across my bench to taking its final converted form can take weeks or months. The most satisfying part is when it all comes together in the end. Knowing that I have personally brought a vintage piece back to life and into a format for modern watch enthusiasts to enjoy is incredibly satisfying. We’ve had many of our customers tell us how meaningful it is to have an heirloom of theirs restored, and getting to be a part of that process never gets old.
Can you describe the moment a restored piece ticks back to life?
BF: Sometimes I feel a little bit like Dr. Frankenstein when he says, “It’s alive!” Not as morbid, certainly, but a similar feeling. A lot of these watches, for lack of a better word, are dead when we get them, not running and in need of rescue. After taking the time to restore a vintage piece — like making sure friction in the movement is low, all gears have proper clearance and the mainspring is providing proper power — the final assembly begins. The last step is adding the balance, and the watch immediately springs to life, ticking like the first time it left the factory a century or so ago.
Has that feeling changed since you first began?
BF: When I first began, I was very interested in the accuracy of these pieces. How, even after 100 years or more, these watches can remain accurate within a margin of a few seconds. While that still fascinates me, I think I appreciate more and more the artistry and true uniqueness of each of these timepieces. Each one is unique with its own characteristics and challenges. That feeling evolves over time and certainly is more rewarding as the challenge in the repair increases.
What’s your philosophy on maintaining originality versus improving functionality?
KF: Both are possible. Everything we do to a piece is completely reversible, from thermal coloring to converting a pocket watch to a wristwatch. Maintaining originality is our top priority, but we believe you can change the way the piece is enjoyed without compromising its heritage or integrity. Each piece we work on can be restored to its original form. In fact, we try our best to source pocket watches in their original cases, which we always send to customers along with their conversion. We are dedicated to preserving these pieces while also creating new ways to enjoy them.
With watchmaking now a neglected craft, what has it meant to see so many people rally around you online?
KF: We knew there was interest, but I didn’t know there was such a big community around restoring and converting vintage timepieces, and we happen to be one of only two established companies in the U.S. doing this sort of work. One of my favorite “small world” moments was when someone contacted us about a grandfather clock. Brendan’s relative, Henry Frett, was a well-known clockmaker, and we’d been searching for one of his pieces. After launching Frett & Co., someone recognized the name and, while downsizing, generously offered us their Henry Frett clock. A few months later, it arrived on our doorstep, an incredibly kind gift and an heirloom we’ll always treasure.
What watches do you wear most regularly?
BF: I prefer vintage pieces with meaning both to myself and historically. One of my favorites is a Rolex Submariner from 1987 that was first sold on New Year’s Eve in Paris, France. I was born in 1987, but I also love the history of having the original sales receipt. It’s incredible as what many watch enthusiasts call a “birth year watch.” I also love my Burlington conversion. They were headquartered in Chicago where I grew up.
KF: I’ve kept just one of our 36 mm conversions, and while I appreciate its history, my interest is mainly aesthetic. It’s a Waltham with a beautiful fancy dial with cobalt blue accents and matching blue strap.
Does having your own heirloom piece connect you to customers? If so, how does that impact your work?
BF: I inherited a pocket watch that once belonged to my great-great-grandfather. Having a piece like that which has been passed down through the men in my family helps me truly understand how others connect to their own pieces. I would call it heirloom empathy. Knowing how strongly you connect to your own family’s pieces allows you to appreciate how others value their own heirlooms, and we’re always honored when they trust us to restore or convert their timepieces.
What have you learned about yourselves in this process?
KF: Looking back, I’m not sure either of us would have envisioned we’d be where we are today. We didn’t set out to build a watch company. This truly was a passion project for us. Brendan’s love of watchmaking and my love of art, combined with some marketing expertise, is the real reason why we set out on this journey in the first place.
I think we’ve learned to trust ourselves while being open to learning different and better ways to do things. Whether it’s a marketing tactic or a restoration technique, we’re constantly growing our knowledge base.
Tell us about the most interesting watch you’ve restored. Do any of their stories stick with you?
BF: I really enjoy working on larger, railroad-grade American vintage movements. These pieces are a little too big to be a wristwatch conversion since they make 50 mm+ diameters, but are incredible. I distinctly remember working on a rare Hamilton pocket watch with fewer than 5,000 ever manufactured. The movement decoration was incredible, and the dial was flawless porcelain enamel. The watch was not working when I received it, so it needed to be completely overhauled. Once it was fully restored and ticking again, it was one of the most amazing transformations I’ve completed.
Is there a moment you’re particularly proud of?
BF: It was definitely the first time servicing a non-running movement and getting it running again. Although that experience happened over a decade ago, it still sticks with me as a pivotal moment in my watchmaking career. Taking something that is not working and getting it back up and running, knowing that the piece has not worked in likely a century, is an amazing feeling.
KF: We just recently did our first giveaway in honor of our five-year anniversary, and I was blown away by the interest and excitement we saw from our followers. I really love that we are able to give back to the incredible community we’ve built over the last five years.
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JASON MASTERS
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
FRETT & CO. CLOCKWORKS