We must be honest, when we heard one of our favorite Little Rock restaurants — Ferneau — was closing and reopening under new ownership with a new name and menu, we were skeptical.
We feared the atmosphere and cuisine would change too drastically or, worse, that Chef Donnie Ferneau was no longer heating up the kitchen. But when we visited to check out the changes since Frank Fletcher and co-owner Tom Roy took the reins and transformed Ferneau into Rocket Twenty One, we were pleasantly surprised.
The restaurant is now open for lunch, as well as dinner. The bar has expanded, the decor has taken a West Coast turn and the menu features some new Fletcher specialties, including Frank’s Famous Chicken Wrap. But Donnie Ferneau is still clearly king of the kitchen, as the quality of the wine, cocktails and food remains right on target.
Our perfect dinner at Rocket Twenty One would begin with the ahi tuna nachos, which are tossed with cucumber and house-made chips and topped with a spicy mayo and teriyaki drizzle. They are simultaneously refreshing and savory — a perfect palate prepper.
For the entree, we recommend the fried pollock served on a bed of purple hull peas with a grilled shrimp remoulade and lemon butter. When we tried it, the fish was amazingly fresh and flaky, the batter light and flavorful. We never would have thought to pair it with our favorite pea, but it was a scrumptious way to add a Southern twist to this North Atlantic whitefish.
We’d bookend this meal with a signature cocktail, like The Blumber, a mix of Stoli Blueberry vodka muddled with cucumbers, sweet and sour and Sprite. But if wine is what you’re craving, you won’t be disappointed. Rocket Twenty One has an extensive and worldly wine list with an emphasis on New World wines, an array of California reds and an admirable selection of half-bottles. Ask your server for a recommendation.
Read our full review here.