You probably have some cosmopolitan friends who visit occasionally and brag about how the dining scene where they live is sophisticated and innovative and original — implying that the dining scene in Little Rock is not.
The next time they show up, take them through the red-framed, frosted glass doors of RJ Tao on Kavanaugh Boulevard in The Heights.
Contemporary, confident and artfully designed, RJ Tao, which opened Sept. 1, tempts visitors with a diverse global menu that focuses on Pacific rim ingredients — fresh fish, tropical fruits, accenting sauces and bright seasonings such as lemongrass, chili, cilantro, Thai basil and red peppers — and noninvasive cooking techniques such as stir-frying and steaming.
The 100-seat restaurant, a collaboration between Robert Tju, partner and general manager of Sushi Cafe at 5823 Kavanaugh Blvd., and Jacob Chi, a member of the local Chi restaurant dynasty, has a dramatic interior with glowing surfaces, Buddha statues, Asian-accented murals, neon lights and the flicker of wall-mounted plasma TVs. Don’t be intimidated — the black-clad staff is friendly and welcoming.
First stop: a sleek lounge, with mixologists serving creative cocktails in the $10 and up range, champagnes (including Dom Pérignon and Roederer Cristal), fine wines and imported and domestic beers as well as a bar menu that goes well beyond bowls of mixed nuts. Recent offerings (subject to change) include cheese fondues, charcuterie, truffle oil fries with grated Parmesan, minced tuna tartare and escargot ($8–$22). Guitarists and jazz trios often perform in the early evening; a DJ takes over after 9 p.m.
A tiled ramp leads guests into a handsome dining room, where an ever-evolving menu pays attention to extraordinary seafood such as Malaysian roasted lobster, giant African saltwater prawns, buttery sablefish wrapped in bacon, branzino (European sea bass), Tasmanian (rainbow) trout and Prince Edward Island mussels.
Steaks, including Arkansas’ favorite bone-in ribeye, are served ($35–$55), as is a rotating selection of meats, among them rack of lamb, kangaroo tenderloin, bison osso buco, veal chops and fried chicken with sweet potato breading.
Fans of wok-fired dishes might want to try chow fun noodles, mee goreng (spicy fried noodles) and Balinese candied walnut shrimp ($18–$24). Gluten-free choices are available.
Take your time in deciding, and don’t hesitate to ask about specifics from the well-informed servers, who are obviously proud of the beautifully presented dishes the restaurant has to offer.
RJ Tao has a happy hour from 5–7 p.m. with reduced prices on tapas and wines. And if your week gets away from you, consider stopping by on a Sunday evening, where changing specials range from chicken and waffles and Maine lobster mac ‘n’ cheese to prime rib, an Aussie (ground kangaroo) burger with grilled pineapple and remoulade on focaccia, roasted chicken and spaghetti and meatballs. Drink specials, too.
Whenever you go, don’t forget to bring your hoity-toity friends. It will be interesting to see their reaction.
Chef Jeremiah Hudson of RJ Tao specializes in preparing and presenting out-of-the-ordinary seafood dishes.
Statues and graceful curves dominate the interior of RJ Tao.
Tuna tartare is among the offerings on the bar menu.
Grilled fish with a Pacific accent plays a starring role on the menu at RJ Tao.