We can smell the “KAs” already. Those of you who’ve stood in line at Mylo Coffee Co.’s booth at the Hillcrest Farmers Market bright and early Saturday mornings know exactly what those two letters stand for — kouign amann (pronounced kween ah-MON). This delicious, flakey, buttery pastry has become an obsession among loyal market-goers — including many of us here at Soirée.
Stephanos Mylonas and his wife Monica are ready to serve these heavenly morsels — sometimes available in chocolate and poached pear — along with their signature pour-over method coffee in the newly opened brick and mortar location in the heart of Hillcrest, 2715 Kavanaugh Boulevard.
After six months of renovations, the former home to River City Tea, Coffee and Cream and The Freckled Frog are unrecognizable. Now, those former spaces have been combined into one open and bright café with beautiful, dark hardwood floors, exposed wood beams and original brick walls to give the space a minimalist yet rustic, warm feel.
But the real draw here is, of course, the provisions. “We want the food to find a belly in a few hours,” says Stephanos.
Truly dedicated to providing patrons with the freshest, highest quality local food and coffee on a daily basis (wake-up call is 3 a.m.), Stephanos speaks often about the importance of local ingredients and the relationships cultivated with growers and local businesses while selling goods at community farmers markets. “We get our coffee beans from Westrock in Maumelle and will do our own in-house roasting. We’re very serious about using local products and giving back because so many people have helped us get here,” says Stephanos. We also spotted gallons of Loblolly Creamery ice cream in the freezer, along with shelved rows of homemade jellies by Jelly Madness based in McRae.
Those relationships are evident even beyond food — local pottery by Ryan Dunn decorates tables, while friends with local landscaping company, Natural State Horticare, planted colorful flowers outside the shop.
Read on, as Stephanos shares more about the journey from his home kitchen to Mylo’s new place, the importance of community and what new things we can expect to indulge in when the shop opens this month.
Where did you get the idea for Mylo and how did you get started?
Monica is a Little Rock native, while I come from Cyprus. We had both always loved to cook, and when we met several years ago in the UK, it was a major part of our courtship. In fact, during that first year, we did more to broaden and deepen our respective culinary skill sets than ever before. Monica decided after graduation from the UofA the following year that she would return to the UK for grad school; she completed an M.A. in Anthropology of Food at the University of London. Meanwhile, I continued to own and operate a music venue in Bristol, a short train ride away. When I visited her in London, we absorbed as many gastronomical wonders as we could. In particular, we loved the modern café tableau, which is essentially a bright, minimally decorated space that lets wholesome, rustic food speak for itself.
That’s exactly what we want to share with [patrons] in Little Rock. We believe in keeping things simple and working with what you have, which is a lot! Our state has so much to offer in the way of local produce. It’s so exciting to be a part of the local foodscape. Monica moved back to town in 2011 and I was able to join her shortly after. We got married the following summer and have since thrown ourselves into this endeavor and have loved every minute. I am particularly attracted to the science of baking and of coffee production, while Monica appreciates the aesthetic appeal and the tradition of communion surrounding these foods. And, of course, we both love the tastes! We could happily eat this bread at every meal, particularly when it’s made with War Eagle Mill’s organic, unbleached, stone-ground flour — talk about flavor!
When did you know it was time to transition to a brick and mortar?
We were thrilled and humbled by our reception at the Hillcrest and Bernice Garden Farmers Markets. After the first season, we began our ultimate mission of finding a shop space, which would allow us to roast and grind our coffee beans in-house and offer a slightly broader menu. When our dream location on Kavanaugh [Hillcrest] became available, we jumped at the chance. We want to keep the space casual and inviting; we welcome people to come and sit with their coffee or take a fresh batch of brownies to go. We will also continue to nurture our relationships with local producers and use their products whenever and however possible.
What do you think sets your bakery apart from others?
Our star products have definitely been our coffee, bread and laminated pastries, namely the croissants and kouign amann. We also offer a variety of savory pastries that can’t be found elsewhere. Together, I think these illustrate the basic tenets of our philosophy: quality ingredients, craftsmanship and small-batch methodology.
How has the support of the community helped you reach this point?
Word-of-mouth is a strong force here! Mylo would be nothing without the feedback we have received from market-goers and family and friends. We quite literally put money on the fact that Little Rock would be open to new ideas and would offer us the constructive support we need. I know Monica is thrilled to be back in her hometown, serving her community, and I have come to love it here myself.
What new things can we expect to see and taste in your new store?
The store itself is already unrecognizable. We have stripped it back to its century-old walls and floorboards, and I think I lot of people will be interested to see that. You will be able to purchase whole-bean coffee roasted in-store. You can dine in casually or carryout for breakfast and lunch, choosing from a varying array of sweet and savory pastries, quiches and cakes, as well as mixed salads and daily sandwich options made on our house bread. In the evenings, we’ll stay open for coffee.