In honor of Thanksgiving and the bird that has come to represent it, this month the Insiders decided to visit a restaurant that not only serves turkey almost any way you want it, but also maintains local icon status.
Steeped in family history and tradition, Burge’s Smoked Turkeys & Hams was founded in the ‘50s when Alden Burge began smoking turkeys in his Lewisville backyard. In 1962 he moved his operation to a dairyette on the corner of Highways 29 and 82 — a location that is still in business and still booming — and in 1977, he opened a location in the Heights.
These days, Burge’s in the Heights (as well as Lewisville) is a hub of activity year-round, but especially around the holidays when they smoke whole turkeys and other meats and ship them all over the country. The restaurant division serves burgers, smoked-meat sandwiches, salads, ribs, catfish dinners and more, seven days a week.
Whether you want a whole bird smoked for your Thanksgiving dinner, or just a turkey sandwich, longtime cooks, Louise “mama” Henderson, and her daughter, Audra Henry, and son, Willie Ward, will fix you up. So make like Soirée and head on over for lunch or dinner. Time it well though; that tryptophan is powerful stuff.
Turkey for Me, Turkey for You …
The Insiders’ lunchtime voyage to Burge’s took place on a rainy October day (what day in October wasn’t rainy?), but the atmosphere in Burge’s was warm and welcoming. The décor reminded us of our grandparents’ home, but in a good way, and the dining room was sprinkled with suit-clad businesspeople, casually-dressed families, ladies who lunch and relaxed retirees.
We ordered entrées that offered three different takes on Burge’s sliced smoked turkey. One of our comrades chose the smoked turkey melt, which was served on a buttered and toasted bun with smoked bacon, melted American cheese, mayo, lettuce and pickles. We also tried the smoked turkey on rye with a mustard-based sweet relish potato salad. And for our final selection we chose the smoked turkey po’ boy, served on buttered, toasted, New Orleans French bread with mayo, lettuce and pickles. Because it was Friday, and because we were feeling carefree, we split a chocolate fried pie.
The turkey in each of our sandwiches was definitely the standout element. One of our fellow diners claimed with sincerity that it was the best turkey she had ever eaten. The smoky flavor was subtle enough to not be overpowering, but present enough to add dimension to the flavor of the meat. The portions were ample, and the meat was tender and juicy, and best of all, fresh. Paired with both the buttered bun and the buttered French bread, the sandwiches were comforting and hearty.
The potato salad was gobbled right up. The diner who guiltlessly devoured it said it was the ideal balance of tangy and sweet, and was the perfect complement to the turkey and rye. As for the chocolate pie, this writer only got a smidge, but in that smidge she saw the clouds part and the sun shine bright. Yes, it was that good. To make a good situation even better, we heard a rumor that a soft-serve ice cream machine might be in the near future.
We simply couldn’t ask for anything more.
From the Deli Case
If you don’t have time to sit down for lunch or dinner, or if you’re wanting to delight out-of-town houseguests with a local goodie, stop by and pick up a container of the popular hickory smoked turkey salad. Or, try some of the pimento cheese, with or without jalapenos. Mama and Audra make them all fresh every morning.
More From Our Dining & Catering Directories
Burge’s Hickory Smoked Turkeys & Hams
(Holiday hours: 8 a.m.- 7 p.m. Monday-Friday and 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.)