Rocket 21 Hits the Mark

One of the best things about Little Rock is the abundance of locally owned restaurants, each one with a devoted following. When a favorite like Ferneau in Hillcrest — now sporting an awning emblazoned with its new name Rocket 21 — undergoes a change in ownership, there are bound to be eyebrows raised. We visited recently to see what’s changed since Frank Fletcher and co-owner Tom Roy took the reins. The good news: not too much.

The restaurant is now open for lunch, as well as dinner. The bar has expanded, the décor has taken a West Coast turn and the menu does feature some new Fletcher specialties, including Frank’s Famous Chicken Wrap. But Donnie Ferneau is still clearly king of the kitchen, as the quality of the wine, cocktails and food remains as perfect as ever.

We kicked off dinner one evening with one of 21’s signature cocktails, the Coconut Bra Experience. Don’t judge. It was a sultry summer evening, and we badly needed a vacation in a glass. The fruity concoction was billed to offer “all the support you need,” and boy, did it! Cruzan Coconut Rum, Skyy Pineapple Vodka and homemade sweet and sour put a smile on our face. The Blumber – a mix of Stoli Blueberry vodka muddled with cucumbers, sweet and sour and Sprite – packed a deliciously crisp punch.

One of our troupe, a gentleman with a penchant for fine wines, schooled us on 21’s wine list. Its predecessor a two-time winner of Wine Enthusiast’s Award of Distinction, Rocket 21 had a lot to live up to in the vino department. But we were thrilled to discover that 21 maintains Ferneau’s extensive and worldly wine list with an emphasis on New World wines, an array of California reds and an admirable selection of half-bottles. We weren’t disappointed.

Our appetizer of choice was the house specialty Ahi Tuna Nachos with cucumber, a delicious combination of sweet heat — thanks to a spicy mayo and teriyaki drizzle — and savory. The tuna was smooth and buttery, the house-made chips were crisp and lightly salted, and the refreshing cucumber slices prepped our palates for the next course.

For a main entrée, we chose the fried pollock, served on a bed of purple hull peas with a grilled shrimp remoulade and lemon butter. The fish was amazingly fresh and flaky, the batter light and flavorful. We never would have thought to pair it with our favorite pea, but it was a scrumptious way to add a Southern twist to this North Atlantic whitefish.

Our other entrée was a true Southern specialty, the shrimp and grits. This ample dish was hearty and spicy with green onions, tomatoes and a half dozen or so fresh, juicy Gulf shrimp. A shot of buttermilk gave the dish a decadently creamy, tangy finish.

As for dessert, we were far too stuffed to even consider it. But next time, that Godiva Chocolate Cheesecake will be ours.

Rocket 21
2601 Kavanaugh Blvd., 603-9208  
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat., live music 10 p.m.-1 a.m. Fri.-Sat.