Today, Hillcrest welcomes the third restaurant in less than four years to occupy the space at the Ice House Center on Kavanaugh Blvd. Kemuri is open for dinner beginning tonight (lunch service will begin in a couple of weeks), but we were granted access to Wednesday night’s soft opening to get a first look at the feel and food of the new restaurant.
Jerry Barakat, owner of Arthur’s Prime Steakhouse and Ocean’s at Arthur’s, is the man behind Kemuri, which represents his most modern offering thus far. Diners are greeted by a contemporary, lighted sushi bar that seats about 12 people. Light hardwood floors and subdued lighting focus attention on the large, purple-lit aquarium and sleek, glass wine rack that divide the sushi bar from the dining room. A separate lounge area that seats 40-50 people houses the seven-seat bar, which is about half the size of the sushi bar. The lounge area can be closed off for private gatherings. A separate wine room that seats 12-16 people can also be reserved.
Kemuri keeps the atmosphere trendy but restrained with a music playlist featuring current indie bands that plays at a moderate volume. Servers in dark outfits were attentive, helpful and fast, exuding enough personality to be engaging without being overbearing. The front-of-house staff was well-trained, and Kemuri’s service appears to be one of its strong suits.
Executive chef Brian Kearns heads up the kitchen, which features a variety of Japanese dishes and other Asian influences. Kemuri’s most unique food preparation is called robata, a Japanese version of grilling. The robata shrimp brought to the table featured deep charcoal flavors that will likely prove popular. Vegetarians will also find the menu to their liking. The panang curry with coconut and Thai basil was a standout that should please vegetarians and carnivores alike.
Of course, Kemuri wouldn’t be complete without sushi. Ocean’s chef Alex Guzman is responsible for training the sushi chefs at the new restaurant, and though he will remain at Ocean’s, his style can’t be missed. Sushi plates passed around the lobby and lounge areas were vibrant and extravagant, a trademark of Guzman’s now well-loved style. A sample of a shrimp, crab and salmon roll, as well as a yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, proved to be very good starters that could also make a filling meal (particularly the roll). There are many more sushi offerings from Kemuri that were not offered Wednesday night.
Kemuri is open seven days a week at 2601 Kavanaugh Blvd. in Hillcrest. Currently, it is dinner only, but lunch service and a weekend brunch should begin in September. For more on Kemuri, visit Little Rock Foodcast, which has a podcast with Kearns and more pictures of the food and restaurant.
