As Little Rock’s reputation as a foodie destination matures, we decided to take a new look at one of the early establishments that laid those tasty foundations — Loca Luna.
When it opened in 1996, owner Mark Abernathy set his sights on offering up specialty dishes in his “Southern bistro” style, augmenting the eclectic menu with plenty of spice and surprises, including pizzas and calzones from what has been called the state’s first wood-fired oven and a globally-influenced array of sandwiches, soups, ocean-fresh catches and mouth-watering steaks.
One of the new approaches on the menu is the “bites,” a feature Abernathy calls “small, snacky goodies that go great with libations.”
“Some people like to make little meals out of bites and appetizers,” he added. Some of these bites include fresh pork skin cracklins, fried portabella slices, parmesan herb dusted fries and unique sauces and dips that continue to be made from scratch at Loca Luna. According to Abernathy, the restaurant continues its devotion to farm-to-table freshness and green business practices.
We tried the blistered sishito peppers (pictured above), blistered to order and served with crispy prosciutto strips, topped with kosher salt and sprinkled with a tangy balsamic glaze. These peppers truly are a treat, a bit easier on the tongue than the name might suggest, but full of earthy flavor. The peppers do range from mild to hot, Abernathy says, and you never know what you are going to get.
Next we tested Abernathy’s take on a true Southern staple, the Spicy Bacon “Pigmento” Cheese. Found on the appetizer menu, this original approach to an old standby is wonderful on its own. But again, the real genius is in the details, this time with the addition of a sweet and spicy strawberry compote infused with a bit of brandy, and grilled ciabatta bread for dipping.
For the main course, we tasted the grilled aged angus flatiron steak, a top-notch take on a dish that won’t bite your wallet. “We really wanted to show that a less expensive cut of meat can taste as good as something that costs more,” Abernathy said, and he wasn’t kidding. We enjoyed ours cooked medium rare, and found that the tenderness of the medallions really does compete with traditionally higher-end cuts. The steak is topped with a pinot noir sun-dried cranberry mushroom demi glaze and crispy onion rings. And we should warn you — the large portion may have you taking some home for a late-night snack.
Also new on the menu are a seared, stuffed fresh tilapia filet filled with lobster-crab stuffing and topped with a lemon herb beurre blanc sauce, and a pan roasted housemade gnocchi with grilled chicken breast strips and a creamy parmesan and dill sauce.
In addition to the new menu items, you may notice other changes at Loca Luna — the restaurant updated the front and interior and re-worked the patio in December. The in-season Thursday night crawfish boil has also become a hit, featuring Ebita draft at only $ 4.00 a pint.
Even with all these changes, rest assured that there are still plenty of old favorites around, too. In addition to the aforementioned wood-fired goodies, Loca Luna’s pie offerings are still around, and keep looking out for rotating nightly specials and a bargain priced wine list. For the brunch fans, Loca Luna now offers brunch on Saturday as well as Sunday.
Loca Luna is located at 3519 Old Cantrell Road. For hours and a full menu, check out the restaurant’s website, and follow along on Facebook for specials and updates.